We make SPC flooring, so it would be easy to just tell you to buy it. Instead, here is the advice we would give a friend spending their own money — whichever brand they end up choosing. Three things decide whether an SPC floor makes you happy for a decade or lets you down in a year: the specification you buy, the terms you agree, and the workmanship that lays it. Check these before you pay, not after.

1. Check the thickness (mm) and the wear layer
Two numbers matter, and buyers often confuse them. Overall thickness (in mm) is the whole plank; it affects how solid and quiet the floor feels and how well it bridges a slightly uneven base. The wear layer is the thin, clear top layer that actually takes the traffic, and it is the single biggest driver of how long the floor lasts. A thick plank with a thin wear layer will wear out before a slimmer plank with a good one.
Ask for the wear layer in millimetres. As a rule of thumb across the industry, 0.30 mm suits normal residential rooms, while 0.50 mm (and up) is built for busy homes and commercial traffic. If a seller cannot tell you the wear-layer figure, treat that as a warning sign.
| Spec | What it controls | Rule of thumb |
|---|---|---|
| Overall thickness (mm) | Feel, stability, sound | Thicker feels more solid; match to the room |
| Wear layer 0.30 mm | Surface durability | Normal residential use |
| Wear layer 0.50 mm+ | Surface durability | Busy homes and commercial traffic |
| AC rating | Abrasion class | AC5 is the top, for heavy commercial |
2. Agree installation and warranty terms with your dealer up front
Settle the paperwork before money changes hands, not when something goes wrong. Sit down with the local dealer you are buying from and get clear, in writing, on two separate things: the product warranty (what the manufacturer covers, and for how long) and the installation terms (who fits it, and whether that labour is guaranteed). These are two different promises. A product warranty rarely covers a floor that failed because of poor fitting, so you want both spelled out — what is covered, what voids it, and who to call if there is a problem.
- Ask what the manufacturer's product warranty covers and its length.
- Ask whether installation is included, and if the fitter guarantees their own labour.
- Get the conditions that could void the warranty (wrong maintenance, unsuitable subfloor, wet-area misuse).
- Keep the receipt, the batch details and the written terms together.
3. Make sure the installer levels the subfloor (screed) properly
This is the step that quietly decides everything, and it is the one most often rushed. An SPC floor floats on top of the subfloor; it does not fix the base, it copies it. If the screed underneath is uneven, dips and high spots telegraph straight through as hollow, drummy spots and joints that work loose over time. Before laying, the subfloor must be clean, dry and level to tolerance — high points ground down, low points filled. Insist your installer prepares and levels the screed, and be wary of anyone who offers to "just lay straight over that."
The same goes for acclimation and the perimeter expansion gap: a good fitter lets the boxes settle in the room first and leaves the floor room to move. These are not optional extras; they are the difference between a floor that stays flat and one that peaks or gaps.
Why a manufacturer is telling you this
Because a floor that fails on a bad subfloor, or under the wrong wear layer, reflects on everyone — the dealer, the fitter and the maker. We would rather you buy the right specification and have it fitted well, even if you buy it elsewhere, than end up disappointed by an SPC floor at all. MILAT publishes the full technical data for its own products — core, wear layer, AC rating, click system, certifications — precisely so you can check exactly what you are getting.
Want a MILAT product spec sheet, the certificate pack, or installation guidance to hand your fitter? Email sales@milatfloor.com or call +90 535 960 79 46.

4. Verify the click system by name, not by promise
Every SPC box says click; very few say whose. The locking profile is precision-milled geometry, and the licensed systems, Unilin among them, are engineered and tested in ways anonymous copies are not. A weak profile is the failure you cannot see in the showroom: it assembles fine on day one, then works open at the seams under a year of traffic, and no wear layer can save a floor whose joints have let go. Ask the seller directly which click system the product uses and whether the factory holds the licence. MILAT manufactures on a licensed Unilin system, and any reputable manufacturer will answer the question in one sentence. Hesitation is your answer.
5. Do the kitchen-table tests before you commit
Take full-size samples home, not swatch chips, and put them to work. Leave one where afternoon sun hits it and compare against a shaded piece after some days. Look at the surface under a low lamp at night, the raking light that exposes whether the texture follows the printed grain or ignores it. Drag a key across a corner with moderate pressure to see how the wear layer marks. Click two samples together and apart several times, feeling whether the joint stays crisp. Stand a wet glass on the surface overnight. None of this is laboratory science, but a product that stumbles on a kitchen table will not improve across sixty square metres of your house.
6. Record the batch and buy the spare box
SPC is printed, and print runs vary fractionally in tone between batches, exactly as wallpaper does. Two rules protect you. First, make sure every box delivered for your project carries the same batch number, and check before the installer opens them, not after three rooms are laid. Second, buy one box more than the job needs and store it flat and dry. That spare box is your repair kit for the life of the floor: a plank damaged in year six gets replaced from the same batch invisibly, while a plank ordered fresh in year six may be a different tone, a discontinued decor, or both. It is the cheapest insurance in the whole project.
7. Inspect at delivery, store like the manufacturer would
The window to report transit damage is short, so open cartons the day they arrive. Check corners and edges of a few planks from different boxes, confirm the decor and batch match the order, and photograph anything doubtful while it is still on the pallet. Then store the boxes correctly: flat, never on edge, in the room's normal living conditions rather than a freezing garage or a sun-baked conservatory. Give the material time to settle to room temperature before installation, per the manufacturer's guidance. Planks installed straight off a cold truck are the classic source of day-one gaps that get blamed on the product.
8. Ask to see the certificates, not the logos
Brochures wear logos easily; documents are harder to fake. For an EU purchase, the CE Declaration of Performance under EU 305/2011 should name the actual manufacturer and product. FloorScore certification for indoor air quality is verifiable, as are ISO management certificates. If the seller's paperwork names a company you have never heard of, you have learned who really made the floor and how long the supply of matching planks might last. A manufacturer with its documents in order, MILAT holds CE DoPs, FloorScore and ISO 9001, 10002, 14001, 27001 and 45001, will hand them over without ceremony, because producing them costs nothing when they are real.
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